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Homemade chemicals & well known formulae:



Disclaimer

The following have been handed down from on high, by stone tablet, by word of mouth, found around the web, overheard in gun shops, shooting ranges, and other dubious places. Need I say ... Use at your own risk!

As far as I know all the information presented below is correct and I have attempted to insure that it is. However, I am not responsible for any errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the use or misuse of this information, nor for your doing something stupid with it. (Don't you hate these disclaimers? So do I, but there are people out there who refuse to be responsible for their own actions.)





SAFETY NOTICE

Some of the chemicals suggested here, particularly acetone, MEK, and ammonia are "hazardous materials" and can pose a significant health or fire hazards if not used correctly. Mix outdoors or with appropriate ventilation and respiratory protection, avoid flames or sparks, and avoid skin contact. Wear eye protection when mixing. If in doubt about proper safety measures obtain the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) which can be obtained on line through:

http://msds.pdc.cornell.edu/msdssrch.asp

http://hazard.com/msds/index.php

http://www.msds.com/





Black Powder Cleaners

Many black powder shooters swear by Simple GreenT and WindexT "glass cleaner with vinegar."

Another black powder cleaner that is used is composed of 1 part rubbing alcohol, 1 part hydrogen peroxide (typical 3 percent drugstore kind), and 1 part Murphy's Oil Soap or a generic equivalent. It cuts Black Powder (even caked on residue that has been left from one event to the next) very quickly. Because of the alcohol, it does tend to eliminate most of the oil it comes into contact with, so be sure to lightly oil everything unless you are going to be firing immediately.





Storage Rust Preventative


For long term storage you can use Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. Apply an even coating to all metallic surfaces. (Editor's NOTE: RUBY will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.)





Rust Removal


For rust removal, try automotive brake fluid. For light rust rub it on liberally with a patch, allow it to sit for a couple of minutes and wipe off. For heavily rust items swab liberally with brake fluid and allow to sit over night. Burnish the finish with a wool pad or #0000 steel or bronze wool. Brake fluid may be damaging to some wood finishes so make sure you keep it on the metal.





Military Copper Fouling Removal Solution (c.1917)

Described in the US Military publications for the 1903 and M1917 rifles was the following "heavy duty" copper removal formula.

1 oz Ammonium persulfate
200 grains Ammonium carbonate
6 oz 28% ammonia
4 oz water

Finely grind the persulfate and carbonate, dissolve in the water and then add the ammonia. Allow to stand for 1 hour before using. Plug the breach and slip a piece of rubber hose over the muzzle. Fill the cold barrel and the section of hose with the solution. Allow to stand for 30 minutes. Dump the solution and clean the bore normally and oil.





Carbon / Crud Cleaner


For cleaning carbon and dried grease in tight places try generic commercial automotive brake cleaner. Just as good, more readily available, and cheaper. Products like GumOutT can also be used. Note that these cleaners remove any preservative oil or grease coatings on the metal so you should lightly coat things with your favorite oil or preservative when done cleaning.





Bore Paste


A bore polishing paste that works as well as JB's can be made from equal parts of BonAmiT, paste wax (like Johnson & Johnson or Butchers), and light oil. The BonAmi is the "doesn't scratch" product. Regular abrasive cleansers may be too harsh for use in a bore.

Another old standby is to use a hand type automobile rubbing compound and a larger tan normal sized bore brush (say, one size larger--.25 in a .22 bore, .33 in a .30, etc.).

For both of these methods you will need a rod that allows the tip to rotate as it passes through the bore.

To use either of these solutions strip the action and clamp horizontally in padded vise jaws. Clean the barrel normally. Then, run the rod through the bore from the breach end, attach the oversized brush and coat with the compound. The pull it back through the bore to the chamber (don't allow it to clear the chamber, to help keep "stuff" out of the action) and repeat this 25 or 30 times. Then with the brush outside the muzzle remove the brush and then pull the rod out of the barrel. Then attach a proper sized jag and a clean patch to the rod and from the breach work the patch back and forth several times. Repeat this with clean patches until the patch comes out clean.

Thoroughly flush the chamber and action with solvent to remove any grit, and then reclean the bore and chamber with normal bore cleaner. Your bore will be noticeable cleaner and smoother.





Mac's Red


A modification of Ed's Red that is claimed to remove copper fouling was developed by Richard McQuisten and published in The Cast Bullet #113, Jan-Feb, '95.

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid
1 part K1 Kerosene
1 part Mineral Spirits or Stodard Solvent/Varsol
1 part Acetone
1 part GM Carburetor/Upper Cylinder Cleaner






Historical Reference--The Original Hoppes No. 9


The original! This formula came from Hatcher's Notebook and the amounts are rounded from the original formula to make 1 quart. NOT the current "environmentally correct" No. 9.

Ammonium oleate (CAS#544-60-5) 5.0 oz

(also known as ammonium soap) Could substitute lanolin but this would sacrifice its mild copper removal qualities

Amyl Acetate (CAS#544-60-5) 8.5 oz ("banana oil")

Nitro-benzene 2.0 oz (the racing fuel additive)

K1 Kerosene 8.5 oz

Neutral Saponifiable Oil 8 oz

(Not identified, probably sperm oil, but ATF could be substituted

 


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