Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):
Q: How does the EBC2 work?
A: It uses low voltage and current to electrically attract the lead from the barrel to the electrode rod. This is similar to an electroplating process, but in reverse.
Q: What if the LED's blink and then all go off, and nothing else happens, that is no cleaning and no green LED?
A: Simply remove and then reattach the clip. The blinking LED's are the self test that occurs when the EBC is powered up. Sometimes, depending on the resistance of the barrel to rod, the cleaning cycle will not initiate. The EBC continuously measures this resistance, and needs to see a high to low resistance change occur. This is the signal to the EBC to start a cleaning cycle. When the clip is removed and reattached, a cleaning cycle will start or resume.
Q: What do I do if the alligator clip falls off during a cleaning cycle?
A: Simply reattach the clip. The timer pauses when the cleaning circuit is disconnected, and automatically resumes when reconnected. The cleaning cycle will resume and finish normally.
Q: How do I abort a cleaning cycle in progress and start a new cleaning cycle, when the timer yellow LED is blinking?
A: To reset the timer and abort a cleaning cycle, unplug the power pack for a few seconds, and then plug the power pack back in. This will reset the EBC2 unit to initial conditions, ready for a new cleaning cycle.
Q: Do I need to unplug the power pack to reset it between sequential cleaning cycles?
A: No, if the cleaning cycle is complete. When the clip is removed and reattached, a new 1 hour cleaning cycle will start.
Q: What if the red LED is always on, and I can't get it to go off?
A: The rod is touching the barrel at some point. You must make sure that the rod has the bore plug and O rings or tape installed correctly so the rod does not come in contact with the barrel. This must be corrected before cleaning can take place.
Q: What if the red LED blinks, and I can't get it to go off?
A: The cleaning circuit is not connected. Check the connections of the EBC2 unit. The EBC2 unit must be attached to the cleaning rod and the alligator clip must be connected to the barrel or metal part of the gun touching the barrel. Attaching the clip to another piece of the gun that is not electrically connected (touching) the barrel will not work. Attaching the clip to plastic, wood or other non-conductor will not work.
Q: If I touch the clip, rod, or barrel during cleaning will this cause a problem?
A: The electrical current and voltage is low, so this will not cause shock or harm. However, to avoid cleaning disruptions such as shorts and open circuits, please leave the EBC2 untouched as much as possible during the cleaning process.
Q: Where can I get more solution for the EBC2? Can I substitute other solvents?
A: Diamond solution can be ordered from LoveMyGuns.com or call 760-731-3307 or fax us at 760-731-3344. It is not recommended that any other chemical be used, as the Diamond solution (electrolyte) is specifically designed to work with the EBC2 electronics.
Q: Does Diamond have any adverse effects on bluing or any special conditions?
A: No, Diamond does not harm bluing, but do not leave the solution in the barrel for extended lengths of time or it will rust the barrel.
(Of course you know Diamond is intended to be used with the EBC electronic cleaner)
After cleaning with Diamond (and EBC), use RUBY solvent with patches (see standard RUBY cleaning procedure) to clean out any residual Diamond left in the barrel. Then protect the Barrel with Onyx or other gun oil.
Q: What do I do if the bore plug gets stuck in the barrel, how do I get it out?
A: Get a plain steel 3/16 rod, 36" long, from the hardware store or use a long cleaning rod. This rod is stiffer and larger than the electrode rod. Gently, but firmly tap the plug out with the rod. Be careful not to scratch the barrel with the rod. A wooden dowel should work also (use oak, not pine).
TIP: Push the bore plug out with the electrode rod BEFORE you remove the rod from the bore plug.
When installing the bore plug:
Insert the electrode rod in the barrel, then press the electrode rod into the bore plug, and then seat the plug in the chamber. Seat the plug firmly, but there is no need to over do it. Put the bolt back in the rifle and tap the plug a few times by closing the bolt a few times (it won't close all the way!). Then remove the bolt and put in the solution.
Q: Is the bore plug still solution proof (good enough to use) after getting stuck?
A: The plug should be fine as long as it is not torn up on the sides. It needs to seal the chamber on one end and hold the electrode rod on the other. You can insert the plug and test it with water for leaks. They take a lot of abuse and should be able to be used many times. I am still using my original plug after ?? rifle cleanings (I can't count). Replacements are available at a reasonable cost (includes O rings): RBRPK, $4.50.
Q: I put all the O rings on the electrode rod, some sections of the rod are still clean afterward, and some are very black. Why is this?
A: Use as few O rings as possible as needed to prevent short circuits (solid RED led). Try using only the rubber bore plug at the bottom and 1 O ring near the top, and put the solution in and then slide the top O ring down the barrel. Or just use electrical tape in the middle of the rod, and near the top. This also works well and prevents bridges.
What is going on is that some sections are not cleaning, either due to trapped air bubbles or short circuits caused by build up of removed lead and copper on the O rings. Once a "bridge" has formed on the O ring between the rod and barrel, the current flows through the "bridge" and not the solution around it.
Q: What does the blinking yellow LED signify?
A: The blinking pattern indicates how much time is left:
Constantly Blinking: 100% or 55 minutes - 1 hour remaining
9 blinks, pause - 90% or 49-54 minutes remaining
8 blinks, pause - 80% or 43-48 minutes remaining
7 blinks, pause - 70% or 37-42 minutes remaining
6 blinks, pause - 60% or 31-36 minutes remaining
5 blinks, pause - 50% or 15-30 minutes remaining
4 blinks, pause - 40% or 19-24 minutes remaining
3 blinks, pause - 30% or 13-18 minutes remaining
2 blinks, pause - 20% or 7-12 minutes remaining
1 blink, pause - 10% or 0-6 minutes remaining
A: It uses low voltage and current to electrically attract the lead from the barrel to the electrode rod. This is similar to an electroplating process, but in reverse.
Q: What if the LED's blink and then all go off, and nothing else happens, that is no cleaning and no green LED?
A: Simply remove and then reattach the clip. The blinking LED's are the self test that occurs when the EBC is powered up. Sometimes, depending on the resistance of the barrel to rod, the cleaning cycle will not initiate. The EBC continuously measures this resistance, and needs to see a high to low resistance change occur. This is the signal to the EBC to start a cleaning cycle. When the clip is removed and reattached, a cleaning cycle will start or resume.
Q: What do I do if the alligator clip falls off during a cleaning cycle?
A: Simply reattach the clip. The timer pauses when the cleaning circuit is disconnected, and automatically resumes when reconnected. The cleaning cycle will resume and finish normally.
Q: How do I abort a cleaning cycle in progress and start a new cleaning cycle, when the timer yellow LED is blinking?
A: To reset the timer and abort a cleaning cycle, unplug the power pack for a few seconds, and then plug the power pack back in. This will reset the EBC2 unit to initial conditions, ready for a new cleaning cycle.
Q: Do I need to unplug the power pack to reset it between sequential cleaning cycles?
A: No, if the cleaning cycle is complete. When the clip is removed and reattached, a new 1 hour cleaning cycle will start.
Q: What if the red LED is always on, and I can't get it to go off?
A: The rod is touching the barrel at some point. You must make sure that the rod has the bore plug and O rings or tape installed correctly so the rod does not come in contact with the barrel. This must be corrected before cleaning can take place.
Q: What if the red LED blinks, and I can't get it to go off?
A: The cleaning circuit is not connected. Check the connections of the EBC2 unit. The EBC2 unit must be attached to the cleaning rod and the alligator clip must be connected to the barrel or metal part of the gun touching the barrel. Attaching the clip to another piece of the gun that is not electrically connected (touching) the barrel will not work. Attaching the clip to plastic, wood or other non-conductor will not work.
Q: If I touch the clip, rod, or barrel during cleaning will this cause a problem?
A: The electrical current and voltage is low, so this will not cause shock or harm. However, to avoid cleaning disruptions such as shorts and open circuits, please leave the EBC2 untouched as much as possible during the cleaning process.
Q: Where can I get more solution for the EBC2? Can I substitute other solvents?
A: Diamond solution can be ordered from LoveMyGuns.com or call 760-731-3307 or fax us at 760-731-3344. It is not recommended that any other chemical be used, as the Diamond solution (electrolyte) is specifically designed to work with the EBC2 electronics.
Q: Does Diamond have any adverse effects on bluing or any special conditions?
A: No, Diamond does not harm bluing, but do not leave the solution in the barrel for extended lengths of time or it will rust the barrel.
(Of course you know Diamond is intended to be used with the EBC electronic cleaner)
After cleaning with Diamond (and EBC), use RUBY solvent with patches (see standard RUBY cleaning procedure) to clean out any residual Diamond left in the barrel. Then protect the Barrel with Onyx or other gun oil.
Q: What do I do if the bore plug gets stuck in the barrel, how do I get it out?
A: Get a plain steel 3/16 rod, 36" long, from the hardware store or use a long cleaning rod. This rod is stiffer and larger than the electrode rod. Gently, but firmly tap the plug out with the rod. Be careful not to scratch the barrel with the rod. A wooden dowel should work also (use oak, not pine).
TIP: Push the bore plug out with the electrode rod BEFORE you remove the rod from the bore plug.
When installing the bore plug:
Insert the electrode rod in the barrel, then press the electrode rod into the bore plug, and then seat the plug in the chamber. Seat the plug firmly, but there is no need to over do it. Put the bolt back in the rifle and tap the plug a few times by closing the bolt a few times (it won't close all the way!). Then remove the bolt and put in the solution.
Q: Is the bore plug still solution proof (good enough to use) after getting stuck?
A: The plug should be fine as long as it is not torn up on the sides. It needs to seal the chamber on one end and hold the electrode rod on the other. You can insert the plug and test it with water for leaks. They take a lot of abuse and should be able to be used many times. I am still using my original plug after ?? rifle cleanings (I can't count). Replacements are available at a reasonable cost (includes O rings): RBRPK, $4.50.
Q: I put all the O rings on the electrode rod, some sections of the rod are still clean afterward, and some are very black. Why is this?
A: Use as few O rings as possible as needed to prevent short circuits (solid RED led). Try using only the rubber bore plug at the bottom and 1 O ring near the top, and put the solution in and then slide the top O ring down the barrel. Or just use electrical tape in the middle of the rod, and near the top. This also works well and prevents bridges.
What is going on is that some sections are not cleaning, either due to trapped air bubbles or short circuits caused by build up of removed lead and copper on the O rings. Once a "bridge" has formed on the O ring between the rod and barrel, the current flows through the "bridge" and not the solution around it.
Q: What does the blinking yellow LED signify?
A: The blinking pattern indicates how much time is left:
Constantly Blinking: 100% or 55 minutes - 1 hour remaining
9 blinks, pause - 90% or 49-54 minutes remaining
8 blinks, pause - 80% or 43-48 minutes remaining
7 blinks, pause - 70% or 37-42 minutes remaining
6 blinks, pause - 60% or 31-36 minutes remaining
5 blinks, pause - 50% or 15-30 minutes remaining
4 blinks, pause - 40% or 19-24 minutes remaining
3 blinks, pause - 30% or 13-18 minutes remaining
2 blinks, pause - 20% or 7-12 minutes remaining
1 blink, pause - 10% or 0-6 minutes remaining
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